de Sigi Hiss
, le 17. mars 2011 18:06
Im Rahmen von Tasting Ex… Press – einer Verkostungsreihe ausländischer Fachmedien im Rahmenprogramm der Vinitaly – lädt WEIN+MARKT zu einer Reise durch die berühmtesten Weinlagen des Moseltals. Der italienische Weinjournalist und ausgewiesene “Riesling-Kenner” Gian Luca Mazzella hat die Probe konzipiert und wird die Einzigartigkeit “Großer Mosel-Rieslinge” am Beispiel von 12 Musterexemplaren aus den Reihen der VDP-Prädikatsweingüter dokumentieren.
One of the most famous wine-growing regions in the world extends from Serrig to Koblenz: Moselle or, rather, Mosel Saar Ruwer, to include the names of two affluents of the famous river.
It is the fifth wine-growing region in Germany in terms of size. It is the first, in Germany and world-wide, for hectares planted with Riesling: above the steep hills where the River Moselle winds for an astonishing 242 kilometres.
The most exciting way to admire the vineyards climbing the steep slopes of slate at the sides of the river is to paddle a canoe along the Saar towards the Moselle.
The sights unravelling before our very eyes include: the huge, wooded hillsides of Wiltingen with slopes of even 90%; Trittenheim, where the river takes an astonishing bend; Piesport and its green amphitheatre of vines; Brauneberg Juffer with vertical rows on the brown slate (“Braun”); the Mediaeval village of Bernkastel where the slate turns black, and then sea blue (the blue slate is marine terrain petrified 400 million years ago) at Wehlen, then pink at Ürzig, with grapes growing above the red sandstone at Würzgarten, the “garden of spices”; Erden and its sun-gilt jewel – the vineyards of Prälat; and still more villages; forests; as far as Winningen with its evocative Riesling terraces resembling birds’ nests along the Moselle just before it flows into the Rhine.
The Romans, about two thousand years ago, understood the importance of these rocky, schist slopes where vines grow. The region is home to one of the steepest vineyards in Europe: Bremmer Calmont. It seems that Calmont derives from the Latin “calidus mons” meaning “warm mountain”. The name recalls the excellent quality of the microclimate that allows truly late maturing of the grapes. In the case of Riesling, this may be even as late as December, whereby the grapes have a very high concentration of sugar, later enhanced by the appearance of noble rot with the mists at the end of October. It is a special characteristic of these grapes to combine a high concentration of sugar with typical high acidity, resulting in the least cloying and least alcoholic sweet wines one can find. In fact, Moselle mostly produces non-dry or restsüsse wines (with residual sugar).
At times, bunches unaffected by Botrytis are left until January and, when the temperature at night falls below -7° C, they are harvested frozen to make the famous Eiswein (literally “ice wine”): pressing separates the ice, and consequently the water in the grapes, from the other substances that are thereby much more concentrated.
This tasting is actually a trip along the creeks of the river: amidst the harvests and flavours of some of the most famous wines in the world, produced by some of the most celebrated companies in the world, using the most noble and long-lived white grapes.
Wine list:
Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs, 2009
VDP-Weingut Karthäuserhof, Trier-Eitelsbach
Uhlen Laubach Riesling Erste Lage, 2005
VDP-Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein, Winningen
Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp Riesling Erste Lage, 2007
VDP-Weingut Van Volxem, Wiltingen
Marienburg „Fahrlay-Terrassen“ Riesling Erste Lage, 2008
VDP-Weingut Clemens-Busch, Pünderich
Scharzhofberger Spätlese, 1999
VDP-Weingut Egon Müller-Scharzhof, Wiltingen
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, 2007
VDP-Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm, Bernkastel-Wehlen
Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese Versteigerung, 2009
VDP-Weingut Willi Schäfer, Graach
Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese Nr. 75, 1993
VDP-C. von Schubert’sche Gutsverwaltung Grünhaus, Mertesdorf
Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese, 2001
VDP-Weingut Wwe. Dr. Thanisch – Erben Thanisch, Bernkastel-Kues
Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Eiswein, 1998
VDP-Weingut Sankt Urbanshof, Leiwen
Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, 2004
VDP-Weingut Fritz Haag, Brauneberg
Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, 2009
VDP-Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues
Coupons purchased by 19/03/11 will be mailed, while those purchased from 20 to 31/03/11 (inclusive) will be available for collection directly at the “Tasting Room Reception” on the 1st floor of “Palaexpo” bdg., entrance A2.
A valid entrance ticket to Vinitaly is required in order to take part in the tastings.
WEIN+MARKT
Fachverlag Dr. Fraund GmbH, Weberstraße 9, D-55130 Mainz, GERMANY
Tel. +49 6131 620524 / Fax. +49 6131 914652 / e-mail: info@wein-und-markt.de
www.wein-und-markt.de
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